29 May 2009

Kevät: Spring

The sun is shining, the birds are singing... it's 4 AM.

We've discovered that now the sun never completely sets. The closest we ever get to "night time" is a cornflower blue twilight, with a pastel, yellow glow hanging on the horizon. But along with 20 hours of daylight has come a full-fledged spring. We know most of you back home in the States are already in summer mode, but here the trees are finally blossoming with lush green leaves, and where there were once patches of snow are now verdant mosses, tall grasses, and beautiful flowers.

A Very Finnish Weekend

We got back from Stockholm to a special treat with our Finnish moms: they had set up the kitchen at the public library downtown for us to have a traditional Finnish cooking lesson. After donning our booties to keep the kitchen floor clean, we dove into a busy afternoon including potato peeling, taste-testing, and a marathon pulla-making session. The exact methods that have been passed on to us are secret, but we plan on making lots more pulla when we get home. At the end of the evening, we sat down to enjoy a delicious dinner cooked by our Finnish moms with a little help from us.

The end of the weekend brought an even more enjoyable treat: a Sunday trip to Ritva's summer house on an island in the middle of a lake on the outskirts of Jyvaskyla. We got to the island via rowboat, courtesy of Ilpo (also known as Mr. Ritva). The house was a charming log cabin with a small sunroom, cozy living room, kitchenette, and beds upstairs in the loft. We spent the afternoon relaxing, taking an authentic sauna, and laying out by the lake. We also enjoyed eating sausages cooked over the fire and celebrating the birth of Ritva and Ilpo's first grandchild.

We now completely understand why the Finns escape to their summer houses during July; the scenery was beautiful, the weather amazing, and the company enjoyable, as always.

28 May 2009

Bloopers

Hover on photos for captions!

We don't think this is what the doctor had in mind when he prescribed crutches.


1st photo with Elizabeth's head in right-hand corner


Jaime's application photo to be one of Santa's elves.


Elizabeth practicing her joiking skills


Condemned to a day in Kilmainham Gaol for excessive use of lip gloss.


The reindeer behind us, #88, was bump drafting.


After Jaime's application to be an elf had been rejected...


Here we observe the Elizabeth in her natural dormant state.

5th photo with Elizabeth's head in right-hand corner


Warning: Objects in Zoom may be closer than they appear.

In Soviet Russia, picture take YOU!!

27 May 2009

Book Review

With Christmas having been right before we left, our family and friends were kind enough to give the gift of travel guidebooks for Finland, Russia, Scandinavia, and Europe. Over the course of our stay, we have put these books to great use, and can now speak with corresponding great authority of their merits, demerits, and general usefulness.

Lonely Planet: Finland
Possibly the book we have found most useful of the four, the Lonely Planet: Finland guidebook has a great introduction complete with brief rundowns of culture, language, history, and general tips for each area of Finland. Divided by region, the book was detailed but concise, and offered annotated lists of activities, sights, shopping, and places to eat and stay, as well as really helpful maps for getting oneself oriented. It also had the winning attribute of having a photo of really fantastic Lappish boots on its cover. Kiitos to Jacob for an excellent gift.

Fodor's Moscow and St. Petersburg
Given that an entire half of the book was dedicated to the city (St. Petersburg) that we were visiting, it was automatically a win. This one was divided into genre of activity (Where to Eat, Where to Stay, etc.), and came with a metro map and such helpful add-ons as Local Dos and Taboos and Worst Case Scenarios. It also had an extensive Russian language guide – not that it really helped us, but we think that's more to do with the complexity of Russian than the simplicity of the guidebook. They also had stars marking recommended attractions and Fodor's Choice designations, and we can affirm that they typically merited that distinction.

AAA TravelBook: Europe
For a company dedicated to American automobile travel, AAA did impressively well providing a guidebook for tourists seeing Europe on foot. Encompassing 41 cities across 19 countries, the information was understandably limited, but what provided was a very useful overview to each area. Its Survival Guides were particularly entertaining, and its History and Essential Information were great to prepare us for our short jaunts across the Finnish border. It also featured beautiful color photos but questionable quotes representing each country. Examples: Finland - “The appearance of the town is entirely modern, in some respects suggesting America rather than Europe.” Sweden - “The farther I came North, the more like New England everything grew to look.” I mean, we guess if you're catering to Americans... Regardless, our new Eurosnob status forces us to be affronted, and mention that Sweden and Finland were there first.

Rick Steves' SCANDINAVIA – As Seen on Public TV
The most obnoxious travel guidebook we have ever encountered: Rick James Steves apparently felt the need to publish his personal favorite Scandinavian attractions... and nothing else. Even while doing so, he managed to retain a snotty attitude, the delusion that he is funny, and consistent failure to disclose times or locations.

Rather than having you listen to us complain, we'll just treat you to an excerpt: “Vegeta Vertushus, which has kept Oslo vegetarians fat, happy, and low on the food chain for 60 years, serves a huge selection of hearty vegetarian food that would satisfy even a hungry Viking.” He also tries to convince you that he has been everywhere worth being and seen everything worth seeing, and doesn't want you to be “fooled by overweight guidebooks!” He likes to plan itineraries for you as well: “Helsinki is worth... about seven hours.” Incidentally, Helsinki is the only thing he talks about in Finland. What he advertises on the back cover of the book to be “dozens of custom-designed, user-friendly maps” turn out to be hand-drawn atrocities that really only served to get us more lost than found.

Rick Steves thought he was so awesome that he decided to write, sing, and publicize his own rap song advertising... himself. Listen by clicking here. Yeeeeah boi!

26 May 2009

The Cave of Military Secrets

Now that we've been living here for almost 5 months, we finally took it upon ourselves to ask our Finnish moms what was up with the huge garage door that leads into a gaping black tunnel in the side of a mountain that is located just up the street from our building. We had asked our tutor, Laura, the first time we saw a car disappear into its depths, and she had informed us that it was some kind of military place. Our Finnish moms took this explanation one step further: this cave is in fact full of secret military computers doing secret military things.

If we take the theory that Austin (Elizabeth's brother) proposed into account - that the Russian girls living next door to us are not really music majors like they claim, seeing as they play really awful songs on their piano, but are instead Russian spies - it would seem that we have a Finnish James Bond movie unfurling at our front door.

25 May 2009

Stockholm Highlights

The Ferry Ship
We caught the ferry from Turku, on the west coast of Finland, to Stockholm, Sweden on the night of the 18th, expecting a large passenger boat. What we got instead was more like a mini cruise ship, complete with multiple restaurants, a huge duty-free store, casino, and movie theater. Our cabin was rather cozy (read: TINY) but comfortable.

Changing of the Guard

To our surprise, we learned that Sweden has a royal family (and we saw their pictures everywhere on postcards), and, though they no longer live in the Stockholm Palace, it is still their official residence and therefore guarded by the Högvakten, the Royal Guard chosen from members of the Swedish Armed Forces. We were lucky enough to witness the changing of the guard at noon while we were exploring Gamla stan, the oldest part of the city. We found a YouTube video of this event for your viewing pleasure.

The Under the Bridges Boat Tour
Stockholm is composed of several islands and two peninsulas. It's therefore easily divided into large areas, each with its own character - Djurgarden, for example, is a National City park, and previously-mentioned Gamla stan, or the "Old City," has cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. We took this boat ride around the city and even happened across a Swedish submarine.

Skansen

An open-air museum that was founded in 1891, Skansen is a recreated pre-industrial village, including farmhouses, windmills, a marketplace, a manor, an old railway, and a Nordic zoo. We were particularly amused by one peacock who had made his way to a sidewalk, who, upon running into a group of tourists, attempted to scare them away by displaying his plumage. Unfortunately for the rather-flustered peacock, who was growing more and more agitated by the second, his display only drew a bigger crowd. We did feel rather bad for him and do hope he has figured out the reverse psychology required to get rid of humans.

The Open Market
In the Södermalm district of central Stockholm, we wandered across a huge open-air market. Underneath their long white tents, merchants were selling plates and glassware, jams, honey, chocolate, sausage, cheese, herbs, clothing, fudge, and even olives. Many of them seemed to be foreigners, especially French vendors of cheese and sausage. We did try a very interesting dessert that was essentially a very long, tubular marshmallow covered in chocolate and coconut.

20 May 2009

Surprise!

We're not in Finland anymore.

No, we're not home early; we're just taking advantage of our last two weeks in Europe to pop over to Stockholm, Sweden for a few days. As you can imagine, there've been a few bumps along the way. Regardless of lost hostel reservations... and ferry reservations... we're currently using the WiFi at our cozy hostel in the center of Stockholm, and we're about to go find some lunch.

We'll tell you all about it, but right now the smörgåsbord is calling our name.

19 May 2009

Warning: Minor Rant Ahead

We love our Finnish moms. We really do. But, having been quasi-independent (we're talking schedule here, not money. Please don't stop the money.) for the last three years, we're used to having a little more say in our event planning.

It all started a couple of weeks ago, when we met with our Finnish moms to go to the symphony. When we first talked about going to the symphony, we were picturing spending a glamorous evening enjoying the sophisticated atmosphere of the event - we don't have many occasions to get dressed up. But our Finnish moms were so concerned about the 20 euro ticket cost, they wouldn't hear of us having to pay for it, so we attended the symphony's dress rehearsal at 10 AM. Don't get us wrong - the music was incredible - but it wasn't exactly what we had envisioned.

That afternoon, during lunch at the Viherlandia greenhouse, our Finnish moms presented us with a calendar on which we were to write any and all of our plans for the remainder of our time in Jyvaskyla. They had already marked several dates on which our presence was requested required, notably an elementary school musical in a nearby city, and a local school's choral concert.

We enjoyed the school musical, but, not having a friend or relative performing or having any idea what the lyrics meant made the hour-and-a-half experience a little bit tedious. However, we were thoroughly entertained by the spontaneous break-dance interlude put on a group of boys, one of whom almost catapulted himself into Elizabeth's lap. We also appreciate that our Finnish moms are so pleased to have us that they really want to introduce us to everybody, but each time we're introduced there ends up being a one-word English greeting followed by a 10-minute Finnish discussion. It's nice that they're interested in us, but instead of talking about us, we wish there was more talking to us.

The choral concert was incredible; we were really impressed by the group of Finnish students (about 30 girls and 1 guy) who put on a two-hour concert of Finnish, American, and South African songs. This was one of the dates that had been pre-arranged for us, because our Finnish moms had, unbeknownst to us, volunteered us to give a half-hour presentation on the States to the students and their parents. The reason lay in that the choir is travelling to San Francisco in the fall for a competition. We ended up having a few technical difficulties with the requested PowerPoint presentation, since the computer provided for us didn't, in fact, have PowerPoint.

Therein lies what really frustrates us: since we never are fully informed on what our adventures entail, we're never really able to prepare ourselves appropriately. Sometimes they pick us up and feed us, sometimes the meal is delayed for a few hours; sometimes our outings last two hours, sometimes they last seven. We think this is especially frustrating for us because we've been conditioned over the past few years of college to become such conscious planners, thinking about details, times, and activities, and travelling has only reinforced those habits.

Regardless, we realize that however psychologically distressing this is for us, it's totally worth the experiences... so on Friday, we'll be showing up to the designated place, at the designated time, ready for anything. And really hoping they feed us.

10 May 2009

We need a tan

Seeing as our daily highs haven't gotten much above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, we're gunning for summer. As much as we love the gentle sound of rain and the cool, wet breeze as it slips through our windows, we have to admit that we would really love a temperature spike and some hot sun to facilitate the darkening of our pasty white skin. After having lived all our lives in North Carolina, four months of this “cold” thing is getting a bit tiresome, and isn't really doing anything for our complexions.

We wanted to articulate our burning desire (haha, burning) for summer in a haiku, because that's how we best express our deepest feelings.

Rain, on our rooftop.
Cold, wet and dim is no fun:
Shopping calls our name.

07 May 2009

Vappu (May Day)

To celebrate May Day, our Finnish moms (minus Ritva) invited us over to Marja-Leena's house for lunch. As usual, this involved a “short walk,” though in retrospect we're realizing that our understanding of a “short walk” has become increasingly more Finnish – that is, it didn't strike us as particularly odd to walk a mile to a dinner party. Without directions.

We were told to arrive at 1 pm, and when we got there Marja-Leena invited us into her living room, a bright and sunny room packed with pictures of flowers, knick-knacks, and floor-to-ceiling bookcases which entirely covered two of the walls. To our delight, it also contained a piano and an impressively new flat-screen HDTV. Needless to say, while Marja-Leena fluttered back to the kitchen to finish her preparations, we had no problems entertaining ourselves – we ended up watching a symphony led by an extremely amusing Spanish conductor.

An hour later, however, we were starting to get a bit antsy. That was when Pirjo and Eira, one of our Finnish moms' friends and colleagues, showed up. We didn't know Eira very well, having only met her once before, but she hardly got into the house before snapping a very candid photo of the two of us. She seemed very nice, but the lack of any exchange of pleasantries made the continuing candid photography rather awkward, to say the least. She also seemed to have a penchant for snapping photos during particularly unflattering moments, including mid-story, mid-mouthful, and really any time we were distracted. Unfortunately, her camera had the flash off but the shutter noise on, so we only realized we'd been the victims of another candid once the damage was already done.

Another hour rolled by before it was finally time for lunch. Starving, our bellies embarrassingly audible, we headed into the kitchen where another round of unsuspected photos were taken as we got our food and began to eat. Our food was pretty good, including traditional boiled potatoes, peas and carrots, pork in a fruit sauce, chicken with onions and mushrooms in a yellow (?) cream sauce, a large “Italian” salad (lettuce, sliced bell peppers, cucumbers, olives, grape tomatoes, and feta cubes, sans dressing), rye malt rolls, homemade rye beer, lemon-rosemary water, and some kind of red cranberryish berry.

After finishing our meals and firmly refusing seconds numerous times, we were ushered into the dining room, where 5 huge glass goblets awaited us at the table. Dessert was then presented: a large bowl of apple and raisin goo – the consistency of a pudding but translucent like a gelatin, and not creamy (it's made with potato starch) – and a mint vienetta, a sort of log of ice cream with crispy layers of thin dark chocolate in between wavy layers of mint ice cream. We watched with increasing disbelief as our Finnish moms not only piled the the goo and vienetta on top of one another, but proceeded to mix it all together. Not wanting to be rude, however, we followed suit. It wasn't bad, but it was one of the strangest combinations we've ever had.

We were quite full, having accepted seconds of the mint ice cream despite much resistance, but we soon discovered that there was yet more eating to be done. We came full circle, returning to the living room, where we were poured glasses of cloudberry wine. After that, cups of hot coffee and tea were waiting. Also waiting was a huge platter of chocolate mocha-cake slices and sugared mini-donuts. Once more, much as we tried to avoid another helping of food, no did not seem to be an acceptable answer, and we had a cake slice and donut piled on each of our plates. Taking advantage of one distraction, Elizabeth did manage to slip her untouched cake slice back onto the serving tray beside her, but Jaime, located across the room, had no such luck.

We shared some pleasant conversation during lunch (or maybe dinner at this point), of course, and enjoyed exchanging stories and recounting our adventures in St. Petersburg. We were the subjects of several odd guessing games, though, including guessing what certain phrases meant in Finnish, and guessing the age of special education students based on their drawings. Between these games and the candid photos, as much as we love our Finnish moms, we began to feel like we were being put in awkward situations for the purpose of observing – and documenting - our reactions. However, we did have a tasty meal and enjoyable conversation, and after saying goodbye, we caught a bus downtown to briefly check out the May Day street festivities (mostly tents with food, candy and trinkets for sale) before heading home for the night.

02 May 2009

It's summertime!

The sun is shining, the birds are singing, and there's no snow left on the ground: summer has finally made its way to Jyväskylä. No, not spring. Summer. We do have four seasons here, but spring was the few days during which the snow was melting. Now that the ice is completely gone from the lakes, we can officially say that it is summertime. In fact, our Finnish moms told us that according to ancient Finnish lore, this grants us permission to not carry around hats and scarves anymore. Given, we've been wearing flip-flops and skirts for a week, but we're the crazy foreigners.

Now that it's summer, we've been hearing a lot about Juhannus, the summer solstice. Because we're so far north, the amount of sunlight we're getting each day has been steadily increasingly, and currently the sun rises around 4:30 am and sets around 10:30 pm. Though we're enjoying the extra hours of daylight - for instance, taking a sunlit walk at 8 at night - we've also become subject to waking up every morning at 5:00 when the sunlight can't be contained by our curtains any longer. But never fear, we don't have much of a problem going back to sleep.